When all else fails, the last resort is to draw a horizontal line where the fixing is required and to drill small holes along the line about 25mm (1 inch) apart until solid timber (i.e.
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It is not so easy to locate the studs holding up lathe and plaster finishes as there is no discernible difference in the sound of a knock.
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To find the position of the studs behind plasterboard, lightly knock on the wall while moving sideways - the studs should sound solid while the spaces between should sound hollow. Studs are normally set at equal distances apart - on older stud walls they are usually no greater than 405mm (16 inches) apart, while in more modern stud walls, the maximum spacing is about 600mm (24 inches). Stud walling (both lathe and plaster and plasterboard)ĭo not fix radiators just to the plasterboard (or lathe and plaster), sufficient support can only be achieved when fixings the brackets either to the vertical timbers (the studs) or using battens fixed to the uprights across the front face of the wall. Some blocks (such as modern high insulation types) are extremely soft, always drill these carefully to avoid over-enlarging the hole and use the special wall plugs. Some clay bricks (mainly old ones) and true concrete blocks contain hard pieces (flints etc) which can cause a drill bit to run off line - this shouldn't cause a problem as the radiator supports on the back of radiators are normally 50mm or so wide so any small sidewise misalignment can easily be accommodated. If one of the top holes hits a mortar joint between the bricks/blocks, this may be a weak point especially where lime mortar has been used - it is best to reposition such a hole into a brick/block by using one of the alternative mounting holes/slots in the bracket making sure that the vertical height of the bracket remains as required. Make sure you have good solid fixings and remember to check for pipes, cables etc in the wall before drilling. Mark the fixing points - where the brackets have slots and holes, use a hole at the top and a slot lower down.ĭrill and plug the wall then screw the brackets in place. The bracket towards the end of the radiator with the bleed valve should be slightly higher than the other to allow any air to escape through the valve. Place each bracket on the wall in turn, line up the mounting face with the vertical lines marked on the wall and the height of the lower support the required distance from the floor. Strong fixings can be easily made on most masonry walls just by using screws and wall plugs. See this page for fitting the valve, plugs etc to new radiators. Once the brackets are fixed in place, hang the radiator on the brackets making sure that it is supported by both the upper and lower supports. The method of fixing the brackets to the wall depends upon the type of wall construction - see below for masonry plaster, stud walling, or plasterboard dry lining walls. Note that most radiator wall brackets have faces of unequal depth, both machined to support the radiator - it does not matter which support face is used but the deeper one may be necessary for the pipes to the radiator to clear any skirting board.
#Radiator cover wall fixings plus#
This distance plus the required distance from the floor is the required height from the floor for the lower support on the wall bracket. On the back of the radiator, measure up from the bottom to the lower edge of the support bracket. Then, on the back of the radiator, measure the distance between the middle of the supports mountings, divide this distance by 2 to establish the offset required on both sides of the line marked on the wall.įor the vertical position of the radiator, it's normal for the bottom of the radiator to be 4 to 6 inches above the floor - try to use the same height as used for any existing radiators.
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The first thing to do is to mark on the wall the vertical centre line for the radiator. None of this is critical and can be ignored if a more appropriate position is decided upon. Radiators are normally fitted central to a feature a window, alcove or wall - where a door opens back onto a wall, radiators are normally positioned central on the exposed wall with the door open. Which type of wall you have, will affect how you fix the radiator brackets but first of all you need to decide upon the position of the radiator and its brackets. A number of different types of internal wall will be found masonry plaster, stud wall (either plasterboard or lathe and plaster), plasterboard dry lining - see our page which explains these different types of wall.